Monsoons, festivals, overnight trains and some of the world's great food and faiths. Practical guides for travelling India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and their neighbours with patience and respect.
A practical guide to Indian Railways for visitors: travel classes from 1A to sleeper, booking on IRCTC, waitlists and RAC, the Tatkal quota, foreign tourist quota, and life on board.
How Sri Lanka's south-west and north-east monsoons mean there's almost always a dry coast somewhere — with a month-by-month guide to the south, west, east, north and hill country.
When Holi, Diwali, Durga Puja, Eid, Dashain, Tihar, Vesak, Pongal and other major festivals usually fall, what they involve, and how they affect travel.
How to approach a first trip to India, Nepal or Sri Lanka: pick a small area, travel in the right season, build in time, manage health and expectations, and handle attention and touts calmly.
Hinduism, Islam, Buddhism, Sikhism, Jainism and Christianity side by side — and the etiquette for visiting temples, mosques, gurdwaras and monasteries.
A region-by-region tasting guide: North and South Indian classics, Bengali fish, Gujarati thalis, Nepali dal bhat and momo, Sri Lankan rice and curry, Bangladeshi hilsa and sweets across the region.
When monsoons, heat and the best travel weather arrive in 11 regions across India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Bhutan and the Maldives.
For most of the country, October to March. The Himalaya (Ladakh) is best in summer, and the south has its own patterns. See the season chart.
Through the official IRCTC website or app, or at station reservation offices. Popular trains fill up — book as early as you can. See booking Indian trains.
Covered shoulders and knees; remove shoes; women may need to cover their hair in mosques and gurdwaras. See religious and cultural landscape.
Busy stalls with freshly cooked hot food are a good sign. Start gently, avoid raw garnishes if you're sensitive, and drink bottled or filtered water.